Ulla’s repair

After finding out that bouncing a 22′ plywood skiff on rocks and concrete doesn’t do much good for her health – story at “A bit of a Blow” - repairs were commenced at once. Topher started by identifying the damaged planks and marking them ready for cutting back to clean, dry wood. We were pleasantly surprised how little water penetration happened in the broken planks, even so it was felt important to get the wood sealed up by repair before the winter really set in.

The repair process is described in captioned snaps, as we progress we will add more - click on the thumbnail for the bigger picture – if something is not clear please leave a comment and we will try to amplify the description. As lettering was really something we should have done before the Splash back in May last year we have put the detail on a  separate page

As usual – click on the thumbnail for the bigger picture .

1 – Using a plunge cut with a jig(sabre)saw the damaged planks are cut back to solid wood

2 – Using a Japanese saw to continue the cut behind the lap – it is important the cut does not extend into the adjacent plank.

3 – The damaged area on the port stern quarter ready for scarfs to be cut

4 – The damaged area on the port stern quarter ready for scarfs to be cut

5 – Close up of cleaned up stem/garboard ares

6 – end view of the ‘hole’

7 – trying the new garboard piece for size – a lot of twist in this bit.

8 – scarfs marked on the existing planks ready for grinding

9 – grinding the scarfs using a coarse grit sanding disc, personal dust protection is essential here

10 – scarfs ground out and garboard glued in place, temporary screws are used to hold it in place while the glue cures.

11 – japanese saw used to cut the scarf into the bevel area behind the lap, use the flat of the ground scarf to guide the blade

12 – continuing the cut behind the lap, this time in the plane of the lap, this and the previous cut remove a small wedge behind the lap allowing the new plank to slip neatly in.

13 – using scrap card to spile the replacem,ent plank from the sound one on the other side of the boat, the pattern needs extending by the lap width when traferring it to planking stock.

14 – inside view of second plank being fitted. The scarfs on the new planks are cut on the scarfing jig that we used in the original build.

15 – second plank dry run fitting, the batten on the lower edge helps form a fair line and with temp screws through the lap ensured good joint pressure

16 – second plank now glued in place – wedging over the scarf at the stern helps fair the joint

17 – view grom the stern showing our temp tingles over the scarfs at the bow end, precoated in parcel tape these should release easily after the glue cures.

18 – view from the bow illustrating the twist in the new planking.

19 – tell tale marks on the third replacement plank dry fitted

20 – epoxy squeeze on replaced plank.

21 – tingles and fairing batten screwed in place, even so, due to its short length, we had a hard spot on the new plank.

22 – wedged struts from both gunwales to try and force the replaced plank to a fairer curve

23 – showing the strut arrangement

24 – finished repair to port stern quarter

25 – finished repair to port stern quarter, once faired and painted we think it will look pretty good.

26 – finished repair to port stern quarter on the inside

27 – Turning over to get at the Starboard damage

28 – some of the Starboard damage

29 – must have been a pretty big thump

30 – cutting out the damaged planks

31 – it’s a big hole to fill

32 – the broken frame – we intend to insert a laminated ply plate into one side

33 – The damaged part of the frame was removed with two slanting cuts with a japanese saw, two scarfed inserts of scrap ply were then glued in to maximise the strength of the repair.

34 – Repaired frame, note the temporary panel pins inserted to stop the repair slipping while the epoxy cures.

35 – While repairing the storm damage opportunity was taken to remove the wort, left over from our experiment with the steerboard. We may replace it later but well clear of the water this time. This shows the scar, a hot air gun and scraper will clean the planking back to the original ply.

36 – the first two planks glued in on the starboard hole

37 – starboard looking towards bow, the replacement plank needed to be longer than the ply sheet so an extra scarf was needed.

38 – the repaired frame after cleanup

39 – view into lap at scarf showing the “wedge” awaiting removal with the japanese saw

40 – scarfs on the frame, one wedge out, one to be done

41 – The chewed up bow stem cut back to receive a graving piece

42 – the removed rock gnawed stem

43 – Stem graving piece fited and cleaned up to profile

44 – the forefoot built up with some offcut larch

45 – the forefoot brought back to profile

46 – minor keel damage repaired with poxy filler using our ‘banned’ plastic oarplates as a fairing surface. Epoxy doesn’t stick to thia plastic.

47 – a coat of undercoat drying – exciting!

48 – undercoats sanded back, seems a terrible waste, you paint it on and sand it back off, but it really is the only way to get a reasonably smooth finish to minimise drag

49 – after sanding back 2 coats of undercoat

50 – clearing the worst of the dust from the neverending sanding.

51 – first coat of gloss from the front – we thought we wouldn’t spot the join – we was wrong ;-) the painter should have longboarded.

52 – First coat of gloss rolled and tipped on the rear stbd side – this is where our ‘wort’ from the steerboard was. The painting temperature was about 4 deg C – paint doesn’t flow well at these temperatures.

53 – the port rear quarter repair epoxy primed on the inside

64 – Starboard side painted and ready for rolling over

65 – Starboard side painted and ready for rolling over

66 – Port inside painted and ready for rolling over

67 – painting was stopped for a day to allow the launch trolly cradle to be glued up on the hull – see the ‘Trailer’ page for more on how it was built.

68 – more of the never ending sanding, it is thanks to the volunteers who kept coming back for more that Ulla looks as good as she does.

69 – As part of the refurbishment we are fitting a Bilge pump, a precautionary measure in preperation for Ulla’s ocean voyaging. here Topher drills a big hole in the Sheerstrake.

70 – positioning the pump

71 – bolted in position, considering the adrenaline effect of a boat full of water we decided to through bolt to the hull.

72 – The big hole in the side.

73 – reaming the taper for the new rollock pins – see http://ullcoastrow.wordpress.com/2010/10/31/skiffology-will-out/ for detail of our pivoting kabe

74 – the new cox’s perch, we think a stable base will be better for the pump action, the hammock seat would allow too much reactive motion.

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